Thursday, November 22, 2007

University and assorted sundries

This week marks eight at university in Huddersfield which, for those of you who don't know (the rest of you who don't care can go make a cuppa) is in West Yorkshire. It's not as bad as you have just judged it to be either. It's the biggest town in England, apparently it missed being awarded city status because some form was submitted too late. Contrary to popular belief, the only way a city becomes so is because the Queen decrees it a city. Nothing to do with cathedrals. There isn't one here anyway, though there is The Paris, our local. It's a dirty scuzzy little pub full of students and regulars, all with slightly dodgy "rock" haircuts and it plays the best music in town. Jagermeister is £1.50 and the toilets are actually confessional booths. Yep, you can slide the grate open and chat to your neighbour whilst on the John. Fantastic.

I guess I'll tell you a bit about where I actually live. It's a little student village, set on the side of a hill, called Ashenhurst. It's a 15 minute stroll to uni, 20 minutes back because there's quite a serious hill to be contended with. I say that like I ever walk back. I don't. There's a free bus. I live in house 14, in one of two rooms on the top floor. There's eight rooms in my little house. Out my window I can see a forest, and below me down the slope, the lowest row of houses where Joel and Locke live. I'll get to them in a minute. Out to the right of Ashenhurst is just a field and trees, forest behind, forest infront. Sadly, on the left, is the estate. It's not a bad looking place but it's full of all of the lowest kind of humanity who have taken to beating up students randomly and for no reason at all. This is a less than desireable situation admittedly but as long as you don't wander around on your own at night, things run smoothly.

On my first night here I attended a party with a girl from next door who had come round and invited me. I lost her within about five minutes of being there, she already knew people, but all was well because the first night at uni is like some kind of friendship orgy. I met a lot of people that night, and consumed a lot of beer. Towards the end of the party I was in a hallway of some house and a skinheaded chap with big sideburns and an inquisitive grin introduced himself. This was Joel. We chatted for a long while, taking the piss outta everyone and generally having what the kids call 'a larf'. The next day I awoke with a slightly thick head and sent Joel a text which resulted in me grabbing my crumpets (that's not a euphemism) and wandering down to Joel's place. On the way I bumped into a little dyed-haired and tattooed Northener named Lucy whom I had met the previous night and invited her to breakfast. She came, and that was the start of the breakfast club. Pretty much every morning since we three have breakfasted together and every evening we cook and eat together. The girl who first invited me to the party, Gemma (who for reasons unknown became known as 'Gerard') became part of this two and that's how things stand now.

Lucy is smart as hell, despite being dyslexic. She studies architecture, does too much work and is stubborn about not doing exactly what she's told. She looks like a hard nut but she has a heart of fudge. She'll go for a pint at 11am if you want, or do uni work until 2am if you need to. She spends more time on my bed than anywhere else and is an expert at watching hours of crappy Channel Four OD programs with me. She takes jokes about her mum very well, keeps me calm in emergencies, and dies and styles my hair several times a week. She can do all kinds of stuff you'd never expect and is always revealing it when you least expect it. She used to own her own house, ran a bar, worked as a florist, can instruct at canoeing, can sail well, rides bikes, has qualifications in everything going and has been everywhere you haven't. If you need to know how to do something, ask Lucy. That's how she became known as Locke, because just like John Locke in Lost, there's no end to her talents and no one tells her what she can't do.

Joel is the happiest person you're ever likely to meet. He is constantly and inexplicably enthusiastic about everything, from what you're having for tea to what time we're getting up in the morning. He studies music production and works hard at it. If you ask Joel to do something, he doesn't let you down and he helps around the house like a proper little housewife. He's very sensible about any issues that might have come your way, and is happy to discuss it and make you feel a million times better. He's never rude about people and will usually think the best of them. He's overjoyed by the fortuitous details of life so everything seems more fun with Joel around. He doesn't complain either. He has a lovely girlfriend called Rosie who everyone here loves and when they get together and bust out their catchphrases it's a real joy to behold. When Joel gets drunk, he says "I've never seen anything like it!" about everything. This is really funny. Unless you're as drunk as I was a few weeks back when apparently I was so annoyed I found it necessary to punch him in the face. I don't remember that and neither does Joel.

Gerard is almost as happy as Joel. She doesn't drink but you'd be forgiven for thinking she was on something half the time. It's amazing how much energy one person can have and generate in other people. She studies midwifery and she's going to make an ace midwife because she actually gives a shit. She's really good at making you feel better about yourself, and when we have sleepovers she neither steals the covers nor takes up too much bed. She's an awesome person to have around because she just gives off good vibes! Yeah maaaan. Gerard knows how to cook, doesn't stress about the unimportant things in life, and makes each and every one of her friends feel valued.

So that's the three people that spend the most amount of time in my room. There are other wonderful people in my life here -Woody, Jason, Kat, Lara etc etc.- but I can't very well go writing about everyone. The main focus of my room is the tea shelf. Fifteen different teas reside there and the collection is still growing. The kettle is perpetually on, the biscuit tin lying open in wait. I have a mug tree nestled behind my computer monitor, a draw for spoons, six or more mugs lying around most of the time and more biscuits than I care to think about. We have tea for all different times of day, as well as several different types of coffee and hot chocolate. Tis a good life indeed. The most tea is drunk whilst watching some series or another. It started off being Lost and Heroes, but we've watched all those now though a new Heroes episode comes out every Tuesday and so becomes the focal point of the day. Then it was Sugar Rush, Green Wing, and right now it's Peep Show and 24. Lazy lazy times. My house mates probably don't appreciate the DVDs playing at all hours but they're all decent people (save for one but we won't moan about that now). There are two Slovaks who used to be a couple but aren't any more (awkward ahoy), two lads from Northern Ireland, a Liverpudlian lad and Liverpudlian girl, a Frenchy, and me, the only Southener and therefore clearly the only sane person in the house.

My favourite thing here is the lazy Sundays. Joel has banned getting dressed and so we spend most of the day lounging around, watching 24 if Locke isn't about or watching Grey's if she is. We eat rubbish, chat, drink a lot of tea, and I moan about my aches and pains from hockey the previous day. Then in the evening, if we can be bothered, we get the Monopoly out and play Drunk Monopoly, a game I am proud to have invented, with my housemates. I wake up Monday mornings with a mushy head and amble down to uni in the freezing cold, listening to the ever-present sound of the ice cream man playing Greensleeves and driving me up the wall.

A hard knock life this aint. See you all at Christmas.

Here's my tea collection:
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We spent four hours getting ready to go out on Halloween and only went out for two:
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My three best, Joel, Locke, and Gerard with me too:
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Saturday, July 07, 2007

Me, Eli, and Alex boogying in Empire:

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The gang in World Bar:

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The Great Ocean Road:

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DANGER! WHIRLPOOLS!:

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The Apostles...not as good as Durdle Dor:

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Apostles, whoo:

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The gang:

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Me, Lene, Jorg and KS at the Round The Twist lighthouse!:

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The boys being silly:

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Me and Lene:

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Me and KS:

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Me and Bear (Alisdair):

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Me and Jess actually eat these cakes:

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Friday, July 06, 2007

Wellington - Cambridge - Sydney - Melbourne - Sydney May 19th to June 11th

Wellington is NZ's capital and looks more like a city than any other town I have seen in this country. My principal reason for stopping here is a guy called Jono, who is a lovely guy Eli and I befriended in Asylum when he was visiting from Sydney for the MTV Awards last month. I find my way to the large, airy flat he shares with five flatmates and we chill out together before an early night I for some reason desperately require.

Saturday is warm and breezy so Jono takes me on a long walk around the whole of his city and buys me a sandwich to boot. To make matters even lovelier, his flatmate Sarah makes a roast for dinner. She is a smiley, welcoming, warm girl and we sit and enjoy dinner together before some of Jono's friends join us for movies. Also around to liven up the weekend is bouncy little afro-headed Sam, another flatmate and a funny guy with a cheeky smile. As I leave Jono the following evening, Sunday, I feel grateful for his hospitality and hope to see him again. A good bloke with nice manners, it is widely acknowledged, is hard to find.

I fall into my coach seat, ten hours of time to fill until I reach my destination, Cambridge, home of the infamous Jeffers. Some of you reading this may have met Jeff (real name Jen) but for those of you that haven't, she used to live in our neighbouring county of Somerset and was introduced to me by Emily Weeks. Many a summer evening back in the UK was filled with the madness and mayhem that follows Jeffers around. The greatest thing about her is that nothing is a drama. With Jeff, it's all cool. As if to demonstrate this, she picks me up, on foot, from the BP garage where I am dropped off at 4.30am, even though she must work at 8am.

What follows this sleeping Monday morning starts is a week of pure old-school fun. We do whatever we feel like- sleeping late, ordering too much take-out, watching movies all day, listening to sugary pop at insane volumes. Jeff has to work most days at Pet Stop, the local pet shop, so I snooze in some mornings, potter about town, then pick Jeff up a half-hour early so I can eyeball the fish or coo at the puppies until she finishes. Wednesday is an exciting day because today Jeff and I pick up her new car- a Nissan Primera we spend the rest of the week cruising around in. On Friday we go out to see the exceptional Pirates: 3, and on Saturday we do what Jeffers and I do best, we go out and party. Practically everyone who inhabits this rainy green land is friendly and so going out is a pleasure. The two of us befriend several locals and part away the evening with no drama, only fun. The next day Jedd and I, along with her friend Scotty, have breakfast out and spend the rest of the day watching chick flicks with Jeff's boss, Chrissy. Leaving Jeffers on Monday is no drama, we both know we'll see each other again and things will no doubt be just as before.

Sitting on the plane I am very excited. I am going home, back to my Sydney family. What follows are some of the happiest and most relaxing days I can remember. As I walk into the Fitzroy and see my friends dining and laughing together I can't help but grin from ear to ear. We all go out for Asylum's Mad Monday but someone by 2am it's just me, Eli, a creepy persistent lesbian trying to hit on her, and a couple of dodgy guys dancing to cheese in the Empire Bar. Eli and I telepathically communicate our mutual desire to leave and crawl exhausted into our bunks. We snooze Tuesday away and indulge in the evening at World Bar, karaoke abound, this time 'Mr Brightside'. The evening doesn't cost a penny and it's one of the best we've had. Eli and I spend Wednesday morning lying on her bed and talking, something we've got down to a fine art and an activity we repeat that afternoon in the Botanic Gardens after tea and scones. We while away the evening watching trash TV with Sarah, an awesome Brit and Asylum old-hand, and just sitting around together, packing our bags. At midnight we go to visit Nick at work in Empire and he is genuinely happy to see us, supplying free soda and good conversation until his shift finishes and we all wander home together. The next day Eli and I window shop, she making the grave error of letting me in Dymock's bookstore, home to 250,000 volumes and not a place I can be easily convinced to leave. That night is Asylum's free bar tab night and indie at World Bar. It is, to say the least, a brilliant night. We dance like loons to The Killers and friends, drink free beer, meet loads of randoms, and I even bump into Christian, my couchsurfing friend from Perth, in Empire. It's perfect.

Today, Friday, is the day of change. After our normal morning ritual, frappes at Starbucks in Hyde Park, I ride with Eli to the airport. She is off to Thailand. Waving her off is one of the strangest moments I've had travelling, and knowing she'll no longer be around is disconcerting. I feel the loss and so take myself out to Cogee to see Jess, who not only always cheers me up but levels me out too. We dance crazily in her front room to Avril Lavigne's 'Girlfriend'. The next day I lunch with Justine and realise how much I've been missing her. Neither of us can wait for her term to end on the 9th so we can resume our friendship proper. And then, once again, it is time for me to climb aboard an overnight coach. Another twelve hours, two more service stations, countless Tiny Teddy biscuits and a serious amount of leg/neck/shoulder cramp later and I am in Melbourne again. It is 6.30am, still very dark, and freezing cold. What does all this add up to? Yep, you guessed it, breakfast at McDonald's. Eventually I find myself once again with the wonderfully hospitable Unwins and after a delicious breakfast out with Ian I idle the day away.

Melbourne is cold at this time of year. Its residents and tourists alike bundle up against the chill and look forward to September's spring. It is this fact that makes mine and Alisdair's decision to do a two day Great Ocean Road trip seem off. But once you see the GOR, the reason for our road trip becomes evident. It is, without a doubt, one of the greatest stretches of road in the world, hugging the South Pacific, the sea cutting dramatic rock formations into the coast. Alisdair, you may remember from my earlier Melbourne blog, is a couchsurfer I met last time and, through phone calls, has become a good friend. He picks me up from the UNwins in the morning and I open to car door and meet the three other surfers joining us. I am very surprised to see Jay, the German I met in Perth, and he is equally taken aback. There is also a sweet German girl named Lene and an American, Katie Spotz, who spends most of the morning's drive snoring softly against the car door window.

Our first stop is at a tourist info centre where Alisdair collects about five hundred leaflets to add to his collection back home in his very own info centre come couchsurfing haven. The heavens open as we continue on our way but we brave it for photos and for a damp lunch under the eaves of a seaside building. Katie, who has thus far been uncommunicative, perks up at my mention of feral children -a direction the conversation somehow manages to take- and this moment proves to be the start of ongoing discussions on ever aspect of life that last for two days. We visit a very impressive waterfall down a great many steps before spending the next couple of hours driving around looking for somewhere to camp. The boys "navigate" in the front while we girls chat in the back, enjoying the warmth of the dark car and not worrying too much about finding somewhere to get out in the rain and mess around with tents. But Alisdair promises that it can be achieved in seven minutes, and as it happens, he's right. Lene and Jay sleep in the car, seats all folded down and on mattresses, so Katie, Alisdair and I take the tent. KS and I are mid-convo on happiness and we talk for some time, she listening intently and talking fascinatingly in turn, before she falls asleep, once again snoring, and Alisdair and I talk until our eyes close.

We awake to a furry surprise. No, it's not that fuzzy morning mouth you get if you didn't brush your teeth the night before, it's koalas. They are in the trees all over the campsite, snoozing as usual. It's the first time I have seen them in the true wild. Along the road we take a stroll through the rainforest to see Triplet Falls, KS proclaiming that she "loves moss". Next up are the Twelve (or more like 7.5) Apostles, the icons of the GOR. They are great standing towers of rock, eroded away from the current coastline and they dominate one of the yellow-sanded beaches with an ancient majesty. We meet free spirits Scotty and Holly here, he a local and she his British travelling girlfriend. They seem to be an amiable couple and so we arrange to meet them in a couple of hours later in Port Campbell, our final destination, for fish and chips. Before that we visit a few more points of interest, a blow hole among them, before the sun sets on us and we find Holly and Scotty for dinner. Alisdair, silly bugger that he is, runs into the sea but hotfoots it out pretty sharpish. It's not a warm ocean that shares coastline with Antartica. The drive home takes about three hours. KS and I sit together and she tells me about her home and friends, we discuss what achievement is and the meaning of success, as well as a myriad of other topics, and time passes quickly, interestingly, and warmly. After dropping her home we remaining three return to Alisdair's house and chat for a while before a much needed sleep.

On Wednesday I meet Jess (better known as Strossel) for a vegetarian lunch out in the suburb of Carlton. I first met her at the Melbourne CS meet-up that Sam took me to and it's a pleasure to see her again. We talk about this and that while chowing down on lentil dahl and she convinces me, with little effort needed, to return to Victoria in two weeks for her three day CS beach house hang out. It is getting into the stage of my travels now where I am less concerned about where I am and more concerned about who I am with. Tonight I meet KS and some friends of hers on Brunswick St. for drinks. The evening starts slowly but warms up as I discover that KS is a lightweight drinker. She is soon pissed and dancing like no one is watching in a bar called Bimbos. She shares the floor with just one other person- a rather hairy transvestite in a humongous blond wig. This is quite a sight, I assure you. Later we attempt to walk back to KS's house but she can't remember the way so after an hour she approaches a man standing by his extremely posh car and he offers us a lift, promising that he's not a "murdered or anything". I am about to say how bad an idea this when KS gets in the car so I climb in. It turns out our driver really isn't a murdered but rather a rather sweet paediatrician who drops us right to our door. We fall into bed (KS lives in a large shed filled with beds, clothes, and assorted stolen paraphernalia which includes a huge 'Police Line: Do Not Cross' barrier) and I fall asleep almost instantly, disturbed only by an angry housemate looking around my bed for a lost bra at 7am.

The next morning we rise slightly bleary-eyed and eat Vita Wheat cereal which is, if you can believe it, even more boring than the likes of rice cracks. The sun has got his hat on as we wander around Vic Markets, KS staring wide-eyed at all the luscious fruit and veg while I munch on some cinnamon flavoured teddy bear biscuits. Tonight Alisdair picks me up from the Unwin's and takes me to dinner, the first man ever to do so, before we meet KS, Jay, and Lene for drinks. I am pleased to have managed to spend some quality time with Alisdair, he's much the sweetest man one could hope to meet. Drinks are fun, we take lots of silly photos and laugh as KS once again takes to the dance floor, proving that she doesn't need to be drunk as long as (and I quote) the music "speaks to her soul".

It's Saturday when I awake and Alisdair drives me out to the airport. Jay is leaving too so Lene tags along to wave us off. It's great to have friends to hug goodbye at the airport. I sleep, practically comatose, all the way to Sydney. I am returning for a very special reason: Brand New. Anyone even vaguely acquainted with my taste in music will know that Brand New are my favourite band, Muse just behind, snapping at their heels. Tonight BN play the UNSW Roundhouse, near Cogee. However, the day very nearly ends in tragedy. I misread my confirmation e-mail and arrive too later at the Ticketek office where I am supposed to collect my tickets. I bang frantically on the doors and a woman appears behind the counter. I put my hands together and make please Jesus, Mary and Holy Saint Joseph signals but she just coldly shakes her head. Right, time for a sulk. I stomp around town for a while looking cross before deciding to chance it and go out to UNSW. One problem though, I don't have my confirmation print-out. A bus ride later and I am at Justine's but no one is in goddamit. Zack (Justine's man) is upstairs and gives me her temporary number as she has lost her phone. The girl is a saint and gives me her uni PC password so I run to UTS and print my confirmation before embarking on the lengthy bus ride to UNSW. I wait in the cold and rain with an ever increasing number of people for the box office to open and when, two hours later, it finally does, the heavens smile upon me- my tickets have been sent up.

The gig is immense. BN play a host of songs I haven't heard them do live before (despite this being my fourth time seeing them in nine months) and do so for nearly two hours. It's sweaty and brutal and I can barely speak by the end- just the way live rock music should be. I chat afterwards to the support act, The Paper and The Plane, and they sign an EP for me. When I get outside it is pouring with rain. Umbrellas, limbs broken and material torn, are scattered everywhere which gives the suburban scene a surreal feeling and I catch a very full bus back to Oxford Street and walk to Asylum where I am asleep with seconds.

I spend the next three days in Cogee where Jess is buried deep under the pressure and paper of the year's final two essays. I keep her well stocked in snacks and tea and make sure I am around to dance every few hours but other than that I amuse myself, glad to be introduced to Jess's new flatmate, the very friendly Jen. I go to Asylum on Monday to bid various farewells. Many people are leaving soon and I myself might not be back to the Cross. I spend an hour in Empire, chatting to Nick, before returning to the hostel for a mini Mad Monday. It is brilliant to get to say such a happy, heartfelt goodbye to everyone, especially my darling Steve who is returning to Scotland. On the bus home to Cogee and I barely banish the smile from my face. It's time to look onward. Queensland, here I come.

Sunday, June 17, 2007

New Zealand Pics Part Deux

Lake, again:

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It really does look like this at Fox Glacier:

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Another nice lake, are you sick of them yet?:

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How to die in multiple ways:

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Anne enjoys a chilly lunch:

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Tasha climbs through the ice hole:

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"Now people, try not to die":

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Anne grimacing:

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I've got chills, they're multiplying:

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Tony and Frederike, my climbing and singing buddies:

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Anne and Sammy:

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Me and Sammy say goodbye:

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Friday, June 08, 2007

Queenstown to Nelson May 9th to 18th

Queenstown is New Zealand's oh-so-hip snow and adventure sports hub. It has a tranquil, lakeside setting but the town is anything but. It's a buzzing youth and tourist fuelled place where the pressure to go faster, climb higher, and jump off stuff is almost tangible. Our hostel is a rambling place with cartoons on every wall, and unique in that our four bed dorm shares a kitchen, bathroom, and lounge with just one other four bed room. One of our room mates, Mat, is a Huddersfield uni graduate and local, a coincidence that leads to an offer from him to show me around when I get there this September. Anne returns from a day at the wineries absolutely battered and, to mine and Mat's amusement, proceeds to fall into a deep upright sleep on the sofa.



Anne takes on more wine the next day while Mat and I take a walk through the gardens by the lake, get coffee, lunch, and watch a movie back at the hostel. Mat's honest, fun, and easy company. I wake up on Friday with butterflies in my stomach: it's bungee jump day. Me and fourteen or so other strange people who thought it would be a good idea to pay NZ$200 to throw themselves out of a cable car climb into the 4WD bus and bump our way to the jump. Nevis, as it is called, is one of the highest jumps in the world at 134m. You jump out of a cable car suspended above a gorge and fly downwards at over 100kmh for around six seconds before bouncing, mercifully, back up. I climb warily into a harness, eyeing the straps nervously and me plus three other jumpers are transferred, via open metal cable car, over the middle of the gorge to the box we are to jump out of. New straps are put around our ankles and I watch with heart in mouth through the glass floor as the first guy goes. He falls for what seems like far too long. Soon it is my turn, and my nerves leave me. The bungee cord is attached to me while I sit back in a dentist style chair then I shuffle to the edge, looking down, wondering absently what on Earth I am doing up here.



"One, two, three, BUNGEE!" shouts the man holding my harness and so I spread my arms out like wings and dive downwards, face first. And downwards is most certainly where I go, with a speed I cannot describe and an entirely new feeling I am quite sure doesn't have a name. Before I know it the cord stretches and absorbs the shock for me and I am flying back up, weightless and careless. On the second bounce I reach up and pull my cord and am righted and given the opportunity to breath and take in my surroundings. Not bad, I think. Not bad at all.



That afternoon Anne and I depart for the Franz Josef glacier way up the West Coast. The drive there, across the Southern Alps on the Haast Pass is spectacular. Waterfalls cascade down from immense heights every 100m and the thick green forest, lush with vegetation and moisture, borders the winding road continuously as we cross bridge after bridge and watch the sun set into the river. Tonight we have the good fortune to start chatting to a lovely group of people fresh off one of the tour buses, the Magic (or more often called "Tragic") Bus. Steph and Kris are from Scotland, Erin is Welsh, and Eamonn Irish. Anne, despite labelling herself antisocial, is a deft conversation starter and we pass the evening with this fun group, and I go to bed with a promise of a beer with Steph and Kris when we are all back on the Aussie East coast next month.



Franz Josef is a tiny town, built only to accommodate those wishing to visit the glacier, and so Anne and I decide to drive over to Fox and do some walking today. Fox is -as the guide books put it- "the other local glacier" and is home to some nice easy walks, ideal for a crisp and sunny day like today. I had woken with a headache and the intention of staying in bed and sleeping it off but it seems our room mate, Marc from Chicago, has invited himself along with Anne so, he being an unknown quantity, I decide I will rise and accompany them for the day. Strolling around the lake walk now, it is clear that Marc is harmless and decent, but one can never be too careful who one gets in a car with.



Anne and I have developed an amusingly conservative scale for rating views and sights in New Zealand and Marc is shocked by our low rating, 6.4, of this lake and mountain vista. I explain that we have seen a lot of lakes and mountains and that we couldn't very well give them all 10.0. Our rating skills, accurate to the decimal point, encompass not only what we are looking at but also include considerations for light, time of day, weather conditions, wildlife conditions, and such details as how low down the snow comes on the mountain and whether or not the surface of the lake is rippled. Marc looks outraged that we judge nature in such a way but Anne and I just laugh.



The next day is Sunday, but my usual home routine of lying in bed with my companion, the hangover, working on mustering the energy to get up and watch the Hollyoaks omnibus seems a world away as we are booked on a full day glacier hike today. We bump our way up the glacier valley in the tour bus. My feet are soaking, the boots the company gave me are sopping but protestations were met with shrugs, and I am wondering if a) shorts were an unwise choice and b) I should have stayed tucked up in bed.



We trudge along the valley behind our guide, arguing over whether the sheer ice-cut rock and mountains whisped with low cloud deserve a 7 rating, before reaching what is ominously titled the 'terminal face' AKA the beginning of the ice. Being an FJ guide is quite a job. They arrive at 7am to begin cutting steps into the glacier with pick axes, they are expected to cut up to fifty steps an hour, ready for the arrival of the tourists at 9am. Due to the volatile and ever-changing nature of the environment the steps have to be re-cut ever single day. We're split into groups of eleven and our guide comes down from his pick-axing to meet us, hands bleeding profusely from the work. His name is Thomas. We all strap 'Ice Talonz' to our boots and begin the steep ascent. At first it feels odd and slightly scary to walk on the ice but it soon becomes natural. We climb warily up and down, over the almost sheer waves of ice and walk gaping-mouthed over huge ice plains rippled like sand on the beach that Anne and I both agree deserve a 9. After a short lunch stop thing get really interesting. We are into crevasse areas now, places where the ice is smooth and blue and sheer. Thomas is cutting the path as we go. Suddenly we come to an ice wall that has a hole right through it and Thomas tells us we're going up and through. It's exhilarating, pulling myself up and clambering through the tunnel surrounded by frozen blue. The girl behind me, Tasha, is very short and so finds some of the day more challenging but I enjoy helping her through the difficult bits. When you have someone else to encourage you forget any fears of your own.

At around 1.30 we pass through a crevasse where the ice walls are so close together that everyone has to remove their backpacks and push themselves through. I am glad now for my shorts as they dry quickly rather than hanging sopping around my ankles like everyone else's trousers. There is barely enough room here to fit one boot width so you can imagine how disappointed we are the hear that we must turn back. The group ahead of us have seen a flake -a dangerous piece of overhanging ice- that we can not pass under in case it falls. What follows is a couple of hours of back and forth, our guides searching for good paths to take us down. It is cold, frustrating, but also dangerous and exciting. In the world of glaciers, there are no certainties it seems and nothing is planned. We hop over ice holes scarily deep, walk alongside cracks full of literally ice-cold water and chat to one another in this unique surrounding. Tasha's boyfriend Joe and I get on well and we talk about life back in England as well as cracking poor jokes in the more cold and miserable parts of the afternoon such as, "always look on the bright side of ice", and, "being stuck on a glacier is snow joke". Eventually, at about 5pm, we are back down. I feel happy but also kind of proud of myself- a day like today shows you that you can do things, physically and mentally, you weren't convinced you could do. It may not sound like much, but it felt like it.

This evening Anne and I go for a drink with Tasha, Joe, and later, Marc. We chat about the day and travelling in general. When I finally get into bed I am exhausted and feel good. Really good.

Monday is departure day again, this time to the seaside city of Nelson on the North coast of the Southland. Anne is planning to settle there for a couple of months and find work at a vineyard so this will be the last big journey we make together. And a big journey it is with perhaps eight hours on the road. The West Coast is pretty desolate with only a smattering of small towns. Mostly the road stays close to the Tasman Sea which makes for some rugged coastline views. However, the road is horribly and seemingly unnecessarily windy and so Anne and I must take it in turns to be the passenger and feel nauseous. We arrive in Nelson as the sun begins its daily business of setting and walk into the Palace Backpackers, a huge old hilltop house converted into a hostel. Belgian Receptionist Veev greets us and she is completely and wonderfully mad. She talks in such an animated way in her delightful accent, laughs so often, and is so scatter-brained that she is immediately likable and Anne and I share many a smile as she shows us round the great wooden bunk-free building.

Tonight we chat to other guests, most noticeably French Canadian brothers Pier (desperately cute) and Israel, Canadians Jesse and Jason, Hawaiian Emily (an intelligent and unique girl) and, would you believe it, Marc, who has turned up here in Nelson and is, coincidentally, staying in our room. The hostel has one large dining table surrounded by sofas which encourages group conversation and I welcome the insights and opinions of the vastly different and wonderful people. I know immediately that this hostel is a place I'd like to settle for a long while and vow to return here when university is over. I climb into bed at gone 1.30am and try not to wake everyone up as I cough myself to sleep.

Tuesday brings sunshine, warms and welcome after so much cold, and I while the day away in a lazy fashion reading The Devil Wears Prada on the sun-drenched balcony, lazing in the hammock and enjoying the sight of Nelson and beyond it, the sea. This evening Anne, Marc and I stroll down to the House Of Ales to drink local Monteiths ale in litre glasses and partake in a pub quiz, which we fail miserably at. I pass the next day in a similar fashion as the last, pleased to have some time to myself to relax after two busy weeks. This evening it is cheap climbing at the indoor climbing centre down the road so Anne and I, plus new-comers 29-year-old Irish boy Tony and 19-year-old German Frederike stroll down, harness up, and do some climbing. This is a sport I have never tried before and, despite being a weakling muscle wise, I really enjoy myself. It's free from competition as your are alone on that wall, encourages team work, and builds fitness and confidence. Never in my life before have I thought about my forearm muscles but blimey do they ache after an hour's climbing. Frederike, despite being a complete novice, is a natural -agile like a cat- and I stay with her and Tony to watch and encourage though Anne decides to head home.

Later tonight, after some great life-talk over Guiness, we find ourselves at the Rock Bar. Yep, you guessed it, singing karaoke. Jesse, Pier and Israel plus a bunch of other hostel folks are here too and Frederike convinces me it'd be a good idea to sing 'Truly Madly Deeply' by the one and only Savage Garden.

The next morning is once again blessed with sunshine so I only allow myself two hours for lazing in bed and finishing my book. Afterwards I take not one but two walks around Nelson; the first alone, the second with Frederike and Tony. It's hardly a strenuous day and Anne and I follow it with a hardly strenuous evening -our last together- spent packing and chatting. The next morning, after the world's most windy drive, Anne and Sammy the Sunflower drop me off at Picton, the port where I am to catch the ferry to the North Island and capital of NZ, Wellington. A quick hug and Anne is off. I'm sorry to see her go but I know, somewhere inside of my very full head right now that I'll see her again. It's just the way it is.

Saturday, June 02, 2007

New Zealand Pics: One

Anne enjoys big balls:

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The Moeraki Boulders, they're no Cerne Abbas Giant:

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The Shag Point penguins:

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Dunedin is cool:

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Me and Anne partying by a gate. As you do.

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Am I secretly Micheal Jackson or am I standing on the world's steepest street? Answers on a postcard:

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FROM THE GORGE RAILWAY

The nicest knob I've ever seen:

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Sun, river, you get the idea:

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Chug chug:

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Picturesque innit:

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Lake Te Anau:

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Glacier plain:

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Mirror Lake:

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Dual mountains:

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Early morning mist:

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The sun has put his hat on:

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Me, an ice cold river, a glacier plain, and the sun:

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Alpine parrot:

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Spidey web:

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River, innit:

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Milford:

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The beginning of the cruise:

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A dolphin:

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Milford Sound's mouth, viewed from the Tasman Sea:

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Milford Sound; it's no river Asker:

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Sexy waterfall:

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Our ship:

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